Ha Giang Loop, Hanoi🛵
The Ha Giang Loop in Vietnam is one of the most popular adventures in South East Asia and was a huge highlight of my travels! I first completed the loop back in 2022, and over the last few years, it has grown massively in popularity, with thousands of travellers now taking on this incredible motorbike journey. As a result, the experience is quite different from what it was when I first visited. My experience was a little different from most, because I went just after COVID-19, when tourism was only beginning to pick back up. So, I wanted to share my personal experience, along with my own thoughts, tips and recommendations to help you plan your trip!
What is it
The Ha Giang Loop is a famous 350–400km motorbike journey through the breathtaking mountains of remote Northern Vietnam. The tour typically takes either three or four days, depending on how much time you want to spend exploring along the way.
The Loop starts and finishes in Ha Giang City, taking you through four different districts: Quan Ba, Yen Minh, Dong Van and Meo Vac. Along the way, you'll experience some of the most incredible scenery, from towering limestone mountains and deep canyons to beautiful terraced rice fields. Some of the biggest highlights include the iconic Ma Pi Leng Pass, Heaven's Gate and the spectacular Nho Que River, where you can take a boat trip and enjoy the incredible surrounding viewpoints. You will also travel through remote villages and communities belonging to indigenous ethnic groups, including the Hmong, Tay and Dao people.
One of the most exciting parts of the experience is that you get to explore the entire route by motorbike! You can either hire a bike and drive yourself or ride on the back of a local guide, known as an Easy Rider (I'll explain the differences and options in more detail below). Each night, you will stay at local homestays, where you will enjoy huge traditional Vietnamese meals, experience the incredible hospitality of the local communities and, of course, drink plenty of happy water – the local homemade rice wine! It is all part of what makes the Ha Giang Loop such a unique and unforgettable experience.
Tours or Going Yourself
Three/Four day Tour
When booking the Ha Giang Loop, you can either organise your tour through a hostel or book directly with a private guide or tour company. You will generally have two options: a two-night/three-day tour or a three-night/four-day tour.
We opted for the three-day tour, and honestly, we had the best time ever! However, looking back, I really wish we had chosen to spend the extra day. The additional day includes a visit to an incredible viewpoint overlooking the surrounding mountains and towards the Chinese border, which I am gutted we missed! If you have the time, I would definitely recommend booking the four-day tour. There is so much beautiful scenery to take in, and having that extra day means you can enjoy the experience without feeling quite so rushed.
Hostel Tour
If you are looking for a really social experience, booking through a hostel is a great option. The viral videos you see online are often from these huge hostel groups, sometimes with 20 or more people. As exciting as it looks, with the opportunity to meet loads of other travellers and enjoy the social side of the Loop, I would personally recommend considering a smaller, private tour instead.
Over the last few years, there have been increasing concerns about how dangerous some of these larger group tours can be. The hostel tours often have a big party atmosphere, with drinking, late nights and a real emphasis on having fun. While there is nothing wrong with enjoying this side of the experience, it is important to remember that you are spending hours riding motorbikes over several days, often along some pretty challenging roads. There can be steep drops, loose gravel, sharp bends and busy stretches of road, particularly when multiple tour groups are travelling along the same routes. I have also heard concerns about Easy Riders feeling pressured to keep up with the groups or maintain the party atmosphere to give travellers an exciting experience and earn tips. This can create unnecessary risks, particularly when tiredness and alcohol are involved.
If you do want the party and social aspect, absolutely go for it, but just be mindful of the potential risks, whether you are driving yourself or riding with an Easy Rider. Some of the popular hostels and companies offering Ha Giang Loop tours include Jasmine Hostel and Mama's Homestay. There are plenty of other operators to choose from, so make sure you do your own research beforehand, read recent reviews and check exactly what is included in your tour. In my opinion, The Ha Giang Loop is an incredible experience, so do not let the party atmosphere or viral social media videos influence you into compromising on safety.
Private Tour
As I mentioned earlier, I completed the Ha Giang Loop back in 2022, and we decided to book a private guide who was absolutely amazing! I am not sure if he is still running tours, but if you are interested in going with a private guide, I will leave his Instagram handle here: @hagiang_tourguide.
Because the Loop was not nearly as popular back then, our experience was completely different from what you see on social media today. I think we only came across one other tour group during the entire trip! There were no queues, very little traffic and the roads were honestly so peaceful. The scenery was absolutely breathtaking, and it felt like we had the mountains almost entirely to ourselves. I do think things have changed considerably over the last four years. Between increasing tourism, changing weather conditions and landslides, the roads and overall experience have become quite different, with some routes presenting greater safety challenges.
Personally, I would recommend going with a private guide, particularly if you are travelling with a group of friends. However, if you are a solo traveller, I completely understand why the hostel tours and their social atmosphere are so appealing. We had seven people in our group, and it was honestly so much fun! We got to enjoy the experience together without having to constantly wait for a huge group of people, and it was such a lovely way to spend more time with friends.
Driving yourself
The third option is to drive the Ha Giang Loop yourself without booking a tour or having a guide. We actually know three people who did this, hiring their motorbikes in Hanoi before making their way up to Ha Giang. If you are a confident and experienced rider and fancy having complete freedom over your itinerary, this is definitely an option. However, make sure you do plenty of research beforehand, roughly plan your route and decide where you want to stop each day. I would also recommend booking your homestays in advance, as they can easily get fully booked, particularly during busy periods.
Personally, this wouldn't be my preferred option. I loved having a local guide who knew the roads, could show us the best viewpoints and took care of organising everything, including our accommodation and stops along the way. It also gave us some reassurance around the language barrier if anything unexpected happened. Ultimately, it's completely down to your confidence, experience and preference, but I would definitely weigh up the convenience and added support of having a local guide before deciding to go it alone!
Safety
This is probably the most important section of the whole guide, and something I really want to highlight before you book your trip.
Can the Ha Giang Loop be dangerous? Absolutely, yes. It can be an incredible experience, but it is important to understand the risks involved and not underestimate how challenging the roads can be. If you are not careful, sensible and responsible, things can go wrong very quickly. Safety should always come before the adventure!
Easy Rider
I would recommend going with an Easy Rider, particularly if you are not a confident or experienced motorbike rider. The roads can be steep, narrow and winding, with heavy local traffic, which can feel really intimidating if you are not used to driving in Vietnam. That said, our group of seven all chose to drive ourselves, but I will go into more detail about this in the next section.
There are also other factors to consider, including animals on the roads, unpredictable weather and, sadly, inexperienced tourists who do not always ride responsibly. There have been several reports of serious and fatal accidents on the loop, so it is important not to underestimate the risks. If you have any doubts about your ability to ride safely, I would strongly recommend choosing an Easy Rider. One of the biggest advantages is that you can sit back, enjoy the scenery and take everything in without having to concentrate on the road ahead. This was something we probably missed out on at times. As we were all driving ourselves, we had to focus on the roads and could not always stop whenever we wanted to admire the views. With an Easy Rider, you can enjoy the experience without that added pressure.
Self-Drive
If you decide to drive yourself, you will need to rent a motorbike. These are manual bikes rather than automatics, as the roads are so hilly and steep, having gears gives you much better control. None of us had ever ridden a geared motorbike before, so we were all a little nervous at first, but we had the morning of the first day to practise and get used to the bikes. We were also given helmets, which we had to wear and shin and arm pads, which were optional.
For me, driving myself was the right choice for two reasons. Firstly, I had ridden a moped before, so I was already fairly comfortable on two wheels. Secondly, I had more trust in myself than I did in having someone else drive me. This might sound surprising considering I'd had two moped accidents in Thailand just two months earlier! However, I knew that driving myself was what I wanted to do.
Licenses
There are also important licensing and insurance considerations to take into account before setting off. Just because you have a UK driving licence doesn't automatically mean you are legally allowed to ride a motorbike in Vietnam or that you will be covered by your travel insurance. This is something we learnt the hard way on our trip!
About an hour into our first day, we were pulled over and had all our licences checked. We were told that none of us had the correct documentation, which was true. We only had our standard UK driving licences rather than the appropriate international driving permits. You can apply for an International Driving Permit (IDP) at selected Post Office branches, and it is relatively inexpensive, so I would recommend looking into this well before your trip. We were each fined as a result. Whether it was a genuine fine or a bit of a scam, we honestly couldn't tell, but we had to pay. I can't remember exactly how much it was, but thankfully it wasn't a huge amount.
Travel insurance is another big one. Riding a motorbike, particularly on a route like the Ha Giang Loop, may not be covered by a standard travel insurance policy. This can depend on the type of bike, your licence and whether you meet the insurer's requirements. I learnt this after having an accident on a moped in Thailand. Luckily, it wasn't serious or particularly expensive, but my insurance wouldn't cover me. This may have been specific to the policy I had at the time, so don't assume every insurer has the same exclusions. Make sure you check the small print and have appropriate travel insurance in place before you go.
Happy Water
Happy Water is the local name for the traditional homemade rice or corn liquor in Northern Vietnam. It is essentially a strong spirit, so don't underestimate it! Each evening, when you're sitting down for dinner at your homestay, you will often find it being passed around the table, with everyone taking a small shot and raising a toast. The locals love it, and it is easy to get caught up in the celebrations, especially when you are travelling with a fun group. However, remember that you will likely be back on the bikes the following morning. You don't want to be hungover, tired or, worse, still under the influence when you are riding.
If you are travelling with an Easy Rider, you might think it matters a little less, but you still need to consider whether your driver has been drinking. The last thing you want is to be on the back of a motorbike with someone who is feeling the effects of the night before. And, of course, there's absolutely no pressure to drink if you don't want to!
Tips
When doing larger group tours like the Ha Giang Loop, tipping isn't compulsory, but it's always appreciated. You absolutely don't have to tip if you don't want to, but it's worth remembering that tips can make up an important part of an Easy Rider's earnings. As mentioned earlier, some drivers may go the extra mile to make sure you have the best possible experience, knowing that happy customers are more likely to leave a tip. If you do want to show your appreciation, even a small amount will be welcomed and I'm sure your drivers will be grateful!
Packing
For the tour, you'll only be able to take a small bag with you rather than your full-sized travel backpack. We all used our smaller hand-luggage backpacks, packed everything we needed for the three days and secured them to the back of our bikes.
Personally, I didn't want to carry too much weight as I was worried that a heavy bag could affect my balance on the bike and make me more likely to topple over. I therefore kept my packing to a minimum. We also each had a small personal bag, which we wore across our bodies while riding, so we could easily access our essentials.
Personal bag
Phone, portable charger, AirPods, sunglasses, small digital camera, passport, wallet, money, snacks.
Small backpack
Tops: thermal, sports top x 2, jumper, rain jacket.
Bottoms: shorts, leggings, cargos/jogger bottoms.
Other: socks, undies, swimsuit, towel.
Electronics: wire charger & two portable chargers.
Toiletries: toothbrush/paste, sun cream, shower stuff and skin care (if you need).
How to get there
Most travellers combine Hanoi with the Ha Giang Loop, and I would recommend doing the same. We split our time in Hanoi, spending a few days exploring the city before heading off on the loop, then returning for another couple of days afterwards to relax and recover.
Getting to the starting point in Ha Giang will depend on how you book your tour. If you go through a hostel, I believe they can usually arrange transport for you. As we booked through a private tour company, we had to organise our own bus from Hanoi to Ha Giang, which takes around six to eight hours. We then had one night's accommodation arranged in Ha Giang before starting the tour first thing the following morning. Unfortunately, our overnight bus was running late, and we didn't arrive in Ha Giang until midnight. This meant we had very little sleep before our tour started at 5am the next morning! Not exactly the best preparation for three days of riding.
Below, I'll take you through what our three-day tour looked like, day by day. Just bear in mind that your itinerary may be different depending on your tour operator, group, weather conditions and how many days you choose to do the loop.
Day 1 (Ha Giang - Quan Ba - Yen Minh - Ma Pi Leng Pass - Dong Van)
Day one started with an early 5am wake-up, when we were given our motorbikes and safety equipment. As mentioned earlier, we rode manual bikes rather than automatics because the roads can be incredibly steep and hilly, and having gears gives you much better control. Before setting off, we had a quick 20-minute lesson covering the basics, followed by a short practice ride down the road to get used to the bikes. Once everyone felt comfortable, we headed off!
We drove a short distance from our accommodation to our first breakfast stop. It was nothing fancy, just a coffee and a bowl of noodle soup, but it was exactly what we needed to warm up, fill our stomachs and prepare for the first few hours of riding.
After setting off, unfortunately, the first half of our morning was quite cloudy with a bit of light rain, so we didn't get to enjoy the views along the way. About an hour into the ride, we stopped at our first viewpoint, where we grabbed a hot chocolate and a snack to warm ourselves up. As you can see in the middle photo below, the views were completely covered by clouds, which was a little disappointing!
Thankfully, as we continued towards Quan Ba, the clouds started to clear and the weather gradually improved! Although visibility still wasn't perfect, we were at least able to catch glimpses of the surrounding mountains and scenery. You can only imagine how incredible the views would have been with clear blue skies and sunshine!
It was also around this point in the journey, although I can't remember the exact location, that we were pulled over by the police and had our driving licences checked, as I mentioned earlier in the guide.
After around four hours of riding that morning, we stopped for our first proper meal of the day. Our tour guide had arranged everything in advance, so we arrived to find several different dishes laid out for us to share between the eight of us. It was a real feast and a nice chance to sit down, refuel and take a break from the bikes! We had a mixture of meat, fish and vegetable dishes, and everything was absolutely delicious. If you have any dietary requirements or allergies, make sure you let your tour guide know beforehand so they can arrange suitable options for you.
After lunch, we hopped back on our bikes and continued along the route, driving between enormous limestone mountains and through some incredibly dramatic valleys. This stretch of the journey was particularly beautiful, as we made our way towards the famous Ma Pi Leng Pass, one of the main highlights of the Ha Giang Loop. We then stopped at the top to take in the breathtaking panoramic views across the mountains and valleys below.
Along the route, you will also have opportunities to meet members of the local H'Mong, Tay and Dao communities. We came across so many lovely people and getting to meet them and learn a little about their lives was such a special part of the experience.
You can ask to take photos with them, although some may ask for a small donation in return. We were more than happy to contribute, and I thought it was a lovely way to support the local communities while capturing some memories from the trip.
After spending some time meeting the local communities, we continued our journey through various remote villages, stopping along the way to visit traditional homes and admire the local architecture. It was lovely to get a glimpse into the different ways of life in these more rural parts of Northern Vietnam.
Afterwards, we set off on the final stretch of the day's ride, which took us through some of the most beautiful scenery yet, with endless rice fields, rolling green mountains and stunning landscapes stretching out around us.
We finished the day by arriving at our first local homestay in Dong Van, just in time to catch a beautiful sunset over the surrounding hills and rice terraces. After a full day of riding, it was the perfect welcome and a lovely way to end our first day on the loop. We spent the evening singing karaoke, dancing and having fun with the local people!
Day 2 (Dong Van - Meo Vac - Du Gia)
Day two started with a beautiful morning at our homestay in Dong Van. Just look at the views we woke up to from our bedroom! It was such a lovely way to start the day, especially after a full day of riding the day before. We then enjoyed a delicious group breakfast, squeezed in some much-needed puppy cuddles before setting off for another full day on the bikes. We had around eight hours of riding ahead of us, so it was time to hit the road again!
Our first stop of the day was at a viewpoint near Ma Pi Leng Pass, where we got to take in more incredible views of the surrounding mountains and hills. The river below was also looking particularly beautiful, completely full and a stunning shade of blue following the heavy rainfall the day before. It made for some amazing views and a lovely first stop of the morning!
We then hopped back on our bikes and drove another five to ten minutes to the Diem Dung Chan Ma Pi Leng Viewpoint, where we were treated to even closer views of the incredible river winding its way through the mountains below. It was another fantastic photo stop and a chance to appreciate just how spectacular the scenery is!
From this viewpoint, we then made our way down to Ben Thuyen Hem Tu San, where we boarded a boat for a cruise along the Nho Que River. The walk down took around thirty minutes, following paths between the mountains, past local rice fields and through some of the most incredible scenery. Honestly, the views along the way were insane!
Luckily, we had gorgeous weather that day, and the river was a beautiful deep turquoise colour. Once we reached the bottom, we hopped on the boat and spent around an hour cruising along the river, taking in the dramatic limestone mountains and towering cliffs surrounding us. This was definitely one of the highlights of the whole Ha Giang Loop!
Once the boat trip finished, we had to make our way back up the steep path to where our bikes were parked. You can either tackle the walk back up or pay to hire a moped to take you to the top. After all the riding, the walk is quite a workout, so the moped option is worth considering if you don't fancy the climb!
After our boat trip, we stopped off for some food in Mau Due before continuing with the rest of the day's journey. The photo below is just one example of how dangerous the roads can be along the Ha Giang Loop. Thankfully, we didn't experience anything too serious ourselves, but some sections of the roads had been badly damaged by heavy rain and landslides. Conditions can change quickly, so it is really important to stay alert and take extra care, particularly around damaged or uneven sections.
One other important tip, don't ride in shorts and a vest top! Wear protective layers, not only to shield yourself from the sun but also to give your skin some protection if you do happen to fall off your bike. It might be hot and tempting to wear as little as possible, but covering up is definitely worth it.
After lunch, we had one final long stretch of riding ahead of us, with stops at two more incredible viewpoints around Duong Thuong. We drove through different mountain passes, rode alongside endless rice terraces and took in some more breathtaking scenery along the way. One of the viewpoints we stopped at is pictured below and was definitely one of my favourites from the entire trip!
Our final stop of the day was this beautiful viewpoint overlooking the local village where we would be spending the night. As we rode through the village, we were greeted by lots of local children waving at us from the roadside. They were honestly so lovely, giving us huge smiles and high-fives as we passed. It was such a heartwarming moment and the perfect way to finish another incredible day on the loop!
We then arrived at our homestay in Du Gia, where we dropped off our bags before heading out again. Before sitting down for our final dinner together, we drove around ten minutes to the famous Thác Du Già Waterfall. We spent the early evening enjoying a refreshing cold plunge in the water as the sun began to set.
For us, it was the perfect way to end our last full day on the loop, and we were incredibly lucky to have the entire waterfall to ourselves! However, from what I've seen, this spot has become much more popular over the years and is now often surrounded by tourists from different tour groups. It is quite a contrast to our experience back in 2022!
Once we arrived back at our homestay, we changed, warmed up and had a huge feast, where we all enjoyed our final meal together. It was also two of our friends’ birthdays, so our guide had thoughtfully arranged a cake for them, which was such a lovely surprise. We then spent the rest of the evening drinking happy water, singing karaoke and having lots of fun with everyone – the perfect way to end the experience!
Day 3 (Du Gia - Ha Giang)
Day three was our final day on the loop, as we made our way back from Du Gia to Ha Giang town to catch our transfer back to Hanoi. Although it was sad knowing the adventure was coming to an end, we still had one last journey ahead of us! We stopped along the way for one final lunch together in Ha Giang before saying our goodbyes.
*Day 4 (Du Gia - Lung Cu Flag Tower - China Border - Ha Giang)🇻🇳
Day four is only included if you choose the four-day, three-night tour, rather than the more popular three-day, two-night option. Instead of heading back to Ha Giang on day three, you will continue along the route to visit some of the loop's most famous viewpoints. One of the highlights is the iconic viewpoint where you can get that famous photo perched on a rocky ledge, with the incredible mountain scenery stretching out behind you.
Looking back, I really wish we had opted for the four-day tour rather than three. I have heard that the final day is absolutely incredible, and it is a part of the route I would have loved to experience. If you have the time, I would definitely consider booking the extra day.
Conclusion
In conclusion, the Ha Giang Loop is 100% worth doing. It is honestly one of the most incredible experiences I have had travelling, and it absolutely lives up to the hype! The scenery is jaw-dropping, you get to spend time with local communities, enjoy some of the most incredible Vietnamese feasts and meet all sorts of wonderful people along the way.
Of course, as I've mentioned throughout this guide, there are risks involved, and it is really important to understand these before setting off. Do your research, choose a reputable tour operator, make sensible decisions and always put safety first. Despite everything, I wouldn't hesitate to recommend the Ha Giang Loop. It's an unforgettable experience, and one that I don't think you'll regret!